St Philip's Cathedral and its Burne-Jones windows

In the middle of Birmingham's business district, surrounded by office workers eating lunch on the grass, stands one of the city's quiet treasures. St Philip's Cathedral is one of the smallest cathedrals in England, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in beauty, history and one of the finest sets of stained glass windows you will see anywhere in the country.

From parish church to cathedral

St Philip's was built in the early eighteenth century as a parish church for a rapidly growing town. It was designed by the architect Thomas Archer and completed around 1715, in the English Baroque style that was fashionable at the time. With its elegant tower topped by a graceful dome and lantern, it was a statement of confidence for a town that was starting to make its mark.

Birmingham grew enormously over the following two centuries, and in 1905 the new Diocese of Birmingham was created. St Philip's became its cathedral, giving the city a mother church without the need to build a new one. That is why the cathedral feels more intimate than many of its medieval counterparts: it was never designed to be one.

The Burne-Jones windows

The real reason many people visit is the glass. Edward Burne-Jones, one of the leading artists of the Pre-Raphaelite movement, was born in Birmingham and baptised at St Philip's. Later in life he designed four magnificent windows for the church, which were made by Morris and Co, the firm founded by his close friend William Morris.

The windows depict the Nativity, the Crucifixion, the Ascension and the Last Judgement. The Ascension window came first, in the 1880s, and the others followed in the 1890s. The colours are extraordinary, particularly the deep reds and blues, and the figures have the flowing, dreamlike quality that is typical of Burne-Jones's work. On a bright day, the light pouring through them fills the interior with colour.

The Last Judgement window, at the west end, is often singled out as the most dramatic. Its fiery reds and the dramatic sweep of the composition make it one of the most powerful images in the building. Take a moment to sit in front of each window in turn, as the details reward slow, careful looking.

Burne-Jones never forgot the city of his birth. His windows at St Philip's are a gift from one of Birmingham's greatest artists to the church where his own story began.

Inside the cathedral

Beyond the windows, the interior is light, elegant and calm. The Georgian architecture gives it a sense of order and proportion, with tall columns, galleries and a beautifully decorated ceiling. It is a working cathedral with regular services, music and events, so there is often something happening, from choral evensong to concerts and exhibitions.

The cathedral's music tradition is strong, and hearing the choir sing in this space is a memorable experience. If you can, time your visit to coincide with a service or a recital.

Pigeon Park

The churchyard surrounding the cathedral is known to locals as Pigeon Park, for reasons that become obvious as soon as you sit down with a sandwich. It is one of the few green spaces in the heart of the business district, and on a sunny lunchtime it fills with office workers, shoppers and students taking a break from the city around them.

Look out for the historic monuments and gravestones dotted around the grounds, including memorials that reflect the long history of the site and the people of Birmingham who have been connected with it over the centuries.

Visiting St Philip's

• Admission is free, though donations towards the upkeep of the building are welcome.
• Check opening times before visiting, as services and special events may affect access to parts of the building.
• Visit on a sunny day to see the windows at their most vivid.
• Be respectful. It is a place of worship, so keep noise down and follow any guidance on photography.
• Pair it with a walk through Colmore Row and on to Victoria Square, just a few minutes away.

Why it matters

St Philip's is a reminder that some of Birmingham's best experiences are hiding in plain sight. Thousands of people pass it every day on their way to work without stepping inside. Next time you are in the city centre, take twenty minutes to do just that. The windows alone are worth the visit, and you may find the calm of the cathedral a welcome pause in a busy day.